We had left our pilgrims to Israel at the oasis of Ein Gedi last time. Now they are back on the bus and heading south along the coast of the Dead Sea and to our right the mountains of Judah rise abruptly from a narrow plain along the coast. Bro. Bob Lloyd’s quotation, “This is the day which the Lord hath made, we shall be glad and rejoice in it,” was more than appropriate today with perfect weather, clear and sunny. Our guide, Zeke indicated that the temperature was often 120 degrees at sea level, but today it was in the high 80’s – just right for touring.
Soon we were all straining for the first view of the fortress, Masada. And there it was, rising from the plain along the Dead Sea to a height of 1500 feet. What a sentinel in the desert is this rock monolith. Arriving at the base of Masada we were surprised to see a very large parking facility already filled with cars and buses of tourists who had also come to see this historical and archaeological wonder. An aerial tramway rises from the base of Masada to a station about 100 feet below the summit. From this point several long flights of steps which are carved out of the face of the rock must be climbed to reach the top. All at once we were aware that we did not see Sis. Koher, our senior pilgrim. Had we, in our excitement, left her behind below? Several brethren made a quick inventory of the group only to find that our energetic sister was leading the group with the guide!
What a sight from the top! One of the wonders of God’s creation lay below us — the Dead Sea, 1300 feet below sea level, with the Lison peninsula jutting out into the Sea from Moab. It is suggested that this peninsula was the site of Sodom and Gomorrah. Our guide told us that the depth of the Dead Sea south of the Lison peninsula was just over nine feet, while on the northern side of the peninsula, the waters reach a depth of almost 1300 feet. This leads authorities to believe that the shallow part could be the site of those two infamous cities.
The salt in the Dead Sea averages 20-27 pounds for each 100 pounds of water, compared to 6 pounds of salt for each 100 pounds of water in the outer oceans. As we looked down upon this body of water, we were reminded of the day when these waters will be healed. “And it shall come to pass, that the fishers shall stand upon it from Engedi even unto Eneglaim. they shall be a place to spread nets; their fish shall he according to their kinds, as the fish of the great sea, exceeding many.” Ez. 47:10. What a beautiful picture to contemplate, for although this area is dry, desolate and salty now, Ezekiel adds in verse 8, “These waters issue out of the east country, and go down into the desert, and go into the sea, which being brought forth into the sea, the waters shall he healed.”
Our group assembled now under a thatched canopy which gave protection from the sun. Our guide told us that this towering fortress of Masada was built by Herod the Great who reigned from 37-4 B.C. History reveals that Herod barely used this palace fortress although he had it stocked with food stores for many years. It was, no doubt, the knowledge of these food supplies and the defensible position of Masada that attracted a band of 960 Jewish zealots from ,Jerusalem during the siege by the Romans in 70 A.D. It was their intention to hold out against the Romans indefinitely. Under their leader, Eleazar, they were successful for two years until the Romans found a way to reach the top of the fortress by building a huge earth-mound up one side of Masada using captive Jewish slaves. The beleaguered band of defenders realized at last that their efforts to resist the Romans were doomed. Rather than surrender their leader appealed to them to die by their own hand than by those of the Romans. Bro. Fred Buckkr read to us there on the top of Masada Eleazar:s speech as recorded by Josephus, a moving experience for us all as we stood on the very spot where it all happened. “For we rebelled against the Romans with courage and a spirit of sacrifice. Our hands are not yet bound and still hold a weapon; let them give us salvation this time! Let us die before be-coming slaves of our enemies and let us remain free as we leave this land of the living; we, our wives, and our children.” Joseph us tells us that the Jews drew lots to kill each other and the last remaining took their own lives and “when they the Romans) discovered the mass of dead bodies they did not rejoice this time at w hat they saw of their enemies, but were amazed at their spirit of sacrifice and their exalted counsel which laughed at death and did not shrink from this great deed.” This was the final act in the war which destroyed Jerusalem. As we walked along the edge of the fortress we could see the remains of the Roman camps below.
Descending from Masada, we drove south along the shore of the Dead Sea and then turned westward climbing up into the barren mountains of Judah our way to Arad. The bus moved slowly up the steep, winding grade through the canyons of this arid wilderness. Suddenly we came upon a Bedouin with his sheep and goats and our driver stopped so we could all get pictures. After this stop we could feel the warmth of the Dead Sea area giving way to the cooler air of higher elevations. Soon we were 2000 feet above sea level and entering Arad, a city of about 40,000 people and still growing. Not many years ago this city was hardly more than a cross road on a map. Arad is now a re-settlement community for many Russian refugees to Israel, as well as an important health resort for the relief of asthmatic conditions. We passed whole sub-divisions of apartments and stores under construction.
It had been a long day filled with Activity since we left Jerusalem that morning and we were glad to find our accommodations ready for us. We found ourselves housed in modern two-unit cottages just a short distance from the main building of the hotel. The call for dinner came none too early and spread before us was a typical Jewish meal featuring turkey. Our evening meeting for discussion as held soon afterwards in the dining room where we did our daily readings and Pro. Bob reviewed our travels. It is interesting to note the account of King Arad in Numbers 21:1-3 which indicates that in ancient times Israel destroyed this Canaanite city, and now we see it once again a part of Israel.
Next morning we were up and ready to go again. Did Bro. Bill Kennedy ever sleep on this trip? He was always the last to say good-night and the first to wish you a cheery good morning. Our official baggage counter Fred Buckler, was hard at work at the front door of the hotel—what a sea of luggage and he er lost one piece the whole three weeks!
Soon we were on the road again traveling west, first to Beersheba, then to the Kibbutz Yad Mordechai, arriving finally at Ashkelon. The countryside from Arad to Beersheba was similar to the United States plain lands with low, rolling hills, which were contour-cultivated to reduce erosion. Most fields indicated a spring crop of either wheat or oats. The closer we came to Beersheba, the more fertile the fields appeared. Genesis 20:1 states, “And Abraham journeyed from thence toward the south country, and dwelt between Kadesh and Shur and sojourned in Gerar.” Here we were in the midst of the land of Abraham.” And Abraham planted a grove in Beersheba, and called there on the name of the Lord, the everlasting God.” (Gen. 21:33) Now, this is modern Beersheba, Israel’s southern capital and hub of the developing Negev’s economic and industrial life. The amount of new construction is almost unbelievable, a large new hospital, university buildings and endless apartments. Our bus made its way to the center of the city. Here we had an opportunity to visit the site of Abraham’s well surrounded by a high stone wall with wrought iron gates for viewing. We could nearly imagine those days as we observed the many Arab women in long black traditional garb and veiled faces carrying baskets of fresh vegetables on their heads and two or three live white chickens in their free hands—recent purchases at the nearby open bazaar. This covered a whole city block with hundreds of individual stalls with everything imaginable for sale from produce to furniture to animal harnesses to clothing and jewelry. We had to leave this interesting scene of bartering and continue west toward our overnight destination of Ashkelon on the Mediterranean.
Note to your members: Sis, Higham was just in Israel in February this year and can report that our guide, Ezekiel Garossi, is well after the recent troubles with Egypt. He sends his warmest regards and thanks for all your prayers during this trying experience. He is looking forward to seeing another group of us this coming May, God willing, and we have planned several improvements this year with his help and suggestions.
The Origin of the Organic World – Part One